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Natural leather, vegan leather, recycled leather: Everything you need to know

Is leather eco-friendly?

If you are interested in fashion and looking for eco-responsible alternatives, you have probably heard of vegan leather or vegetable leather. But what does this term mean exactly, and is it really more eco-friendly than classic leather? We explain everything to you to understand the advantages and disadvantages of each option.

What is natural leather?

Leather is a natural material produced from the skin of animals such as cows, sheep or pigs. It is a material that has always been used and which rhymes with quality, robustness or even luxury. Indeed, this material has many advantages and is particularly popular for the manufacture of high-quality bags and shoes. 

Its manufacturing process is ancestral and involves several stages:

Animal breeding and skin recovery

Without meat consumption, no leather. And since we live in a world where meat consumption is still very high, it should be noted that the leather industry reuses hides from livestock that would otherwise be considered waste. Animal farming is, however, a polluting practice since it represents 12% of the greenhouse gases produced by humans.

Tanning

This is the process that turns rawhide into leather. This usually involves the use of chemicals like chromium, which are bad for the environment and for people working in tanneries. In recent years, alternatives to chrome tanning have been (re)developed, such as vegetable or chrome-free tanning. These alternatives unfortunately still remain in the minority today.

Staining and finishing

Once tanned, the hide is dyed and finished to achieve different textures and colors. This step generally requires the use of chemicals, which is clearly problematic from an environmental point of view. Plant-based alternatives are developing but remain in the minority to date.

Leather is valued for its durability, strength and luxurious appearance. However, it raises real ecological issues; here are the essential points for or against its use:

 

Arguments in favor of using natural leather: 

  • Quality leather can last for years or even decades, making it a durable material in the long term.

  • Revalorization of waste from the meat industry

  • It offers a wide variety of textures, making it a versatile fiber

Arguments against the use of natural leather: 

  • The breeding of livestock from which the skins are made contributes massively to greenhouse gas emissions
  • Treatment of animals can be cruel

  • Tanning and dyeing leather requires a lot of water and chemicals like chrome

  • The traceability of skins is often complex



Vegan leather or vegetable leather: a cruelty-free alternative

Vegan leather, on the other hand, is a synthetic version designed to mimic the look and texture of traditional leather. We all know Skai or imitation leather which was all the rage in the 80s. At that time, we were not talking about vegan leather, and yet today we can consider them as part of this category of materials.

In recent years, new types of vegan leather have emerged: vegetable leathers, made from fruits or vegetables.

In this new generation of vegan leather we can find: pineapple, apple, mushroom, cactus.

We often tend to imagine vegan leather as an eco-responsible, plant-based and natural alternative, but let's not mix everything up. As its name suggests, vegan leather was invented to avoid using animals, but its environmental impact is not neutral.

We explain to you concretely how plant-based vegan leather is made:

Basic materials

Plant-based vegan leathers sometimes use fruit and vegetable waste (this is the case for apples, grapes, pineapples) and sometimes plants are produced solely to be transformed into vegetable leather (this is is the case of the cactus for example).

Assembly

These materials will be crushed to be able to mix them with synthetic materials and natural materials. In general you will find polyurethane (PU), PVC, polyester and cotton.

Dye and texture

The vegan leather is then dyed and textured to give it a similar appearance to natural leather.

 

MoEa bio-sneakers made from banana leaves

Vegan leather offers an alternative for fashion lovers who want to avoid animal products. However, it also presents aspects to consider from an ecological point of view; here are the advantages and disadvantages:

 The arguments for using natural leather: 

    • Vegan leather, since it does not use animals, releases on average 78% less CO2 than traditional leather

    • It prevents animal abuse

    • In certain cases it recycles waste from the food industry

     

    Arguments against the use of natural leather: 

    • Vegan leathers are largely composed of synthetic products derived from petroleum products
    • Being a mixture of different materials, vegan leather is not very recyclable, which poses a real challenge for its post-consumer impact.

    • Dyeing vegan leather like traditional leather requires the use of chemicals

     

    Is vegan leather more eco-friendly than leather?

     

    Now that you know both sides of the coin, you understand that it is difficult to choose between traditional leather and vegan leather, both materials have advantages and disadvantages. And yet we can't do without it, we want to keep our perfectos and our thigh-high boots!

     

    Here are our tips for choosing the most environmentally friendly options.

     

    How to choose your bag, shoes or leather jacket?

    • Choose brands committed to responsible and ethical production

    • Checks the composition of the leather and favors labeled leathers that come from sustainable and certified sources.

    • Favor chromefree or vegetable tanned leathers

     

    Vegan leather: how to navigate it?

    • Choose vegan alternatives made from recycled materials to minimize environmental impact

    • Privilege of plant components coming from the revaluation of waste rather than a culture made expressly for the production of leather

     

    In conclusion, the choice between leather and vegan leather depends on your personal values ​​and your environmental priorities. Each option has its pros and cons, but with a little research and discernment, you can find products that match your style while respecting the planet.

    Is recycled leather more eco-responsible?

    Recycled leather is made from already existing materials, such as leather scraps, used leather products or even recycled leather fibers.

    Benefits of recycled leather:

    1. Waste Reduction: By using existing materials, recycled leather helps reduce the amount of waste sent to landfills and reduces pressure on natural resources.

    2. Less environmental footprint: Traditional leather production is often associated with deforestation, water consumption and pollution. By recycling leather, we reduce these negative impacts on the environment.

    3. Innovation and Creativity: Recycled leather manufacturing encourages innovation in the fashion industry. Designers are exploring new techniques and creative possibilities to give existing materials a second life.

    Limitations and challenges:

    1. Variable quality: The quality of recycled leather can vary depending on the sources and recycling processes used. Some products may have imperfections or less durability compared to traditional leather.

    2. Impact of recycling processes: Although recycled leather reduces the demand for new raw materials, the recycling processes themselves can have environmental implications. For example, some chemical processes used to process recycled leather can be polluting if not properly managed.

    3. Limited Availability: The supply of recycled leather may be limited by the availability of recyclable materials and market demand. This can make recycled leather less accessible or more expensive than traditional leather in some cases.

    Recycled leather certainly offers benefits in terms of reduced waste and environmental footprint compared to traditional leather. However, it is not without challenges and limitations, and its sustainability depends largely on the specific recycling practices used and the transparency and traceability of the supply chain.

    Now that you are armed with knowledge, make your choice with style and awareness!

    Gabriela Hearst